So where were we? Oh yes, we were finally able to leave the boatyard with the engine repaired. We thought the weather was calmed down enough to catch up with the rest of the fleet in Deltaville VA. We left at 7:00 a.m. and arrived at the yacht club, 15 miles away, at 1:00 p.m. A rough, cold ride but not unreasonable for the short distance. The next morning the winds had died down, the waves had calmed, and we made it to Hampton Roads just off the Norfolk harbour. We did a quick tour of the waterfront before the sun went down, tried to crash a homecoming dinner for the class of ’93 (they said we would be welcome, my companions weren’t feeling it and bailed out the front door), and then headed across the harbour the next morning. The harbour is a major port and is about 10 miles across. With the currents, winds and waves, it took us 2 hours to get across and start at Mile 0 of the ICW. The rest of the fleet were impressed with the navy ships but Tony and I were stunned at how empty it was. 10 years ago it was crowded with war ships but this year, apparently they had somewhere else to be.
The locals at the marina in Hampton Roads has recommended that we take the Virginia Cut, due to our deeper drafts, rather than the Dismal Swamp. This turned out to be a good piece of advice since Dismal Swamp travellers bumped the bottom, ran through tree branches with their rigging, and found it to be a harder go that what we found by taking the other route. The advantage to the Dismal Swamp is the speed limit which discourages the faster power boats from taking that route. We didn’t mind the occasional “roll” by the big boys because we didn’t hit the bottom once, nor anything overhead. We did anchor just off the channel one night when a Canada goose made its presence known to a power boat coming through. The boat sped up, slowed down, sped up, slowed down – we took a look through the binoculars to see what was up. The goose was flying ahead of the boat and landing in its path. The boat was slowing down, passing the goose and speeding up. When the wake caught the goose, he (she?) flapped his wings, took off, passed the boat and landed right in front of it. On it went until the boat was out of sight. Pushy Canadian, eh?
We went on the next morning and anchored in the Little Alligator River – no alligators but lots of current and lots of wind. Early the next morning we headed to Belhaven NC and anchored in the bay. They have a crab cannery there but due to high winds, the crabbers weren’t out doing their thing, so no fresh crabs to be had. We were there 3 days waiting for winds to abate (sounding familiar?) and made ourselves comfortable in the little town. Each morning we went to a little coffee shop and signed on to the internet. Seven of us had haircuts at the adjoining salon. They were very friendly and seemed to enjoy our company. When we mentioned that we had hoped to get some crabs, Lisa, the coffee lady, called some friends and in no time a bushel of live crabs was delivered to the coffee shop. Now the problem was going to be steaming them. No problem, Lisa the wonder lady called her husband at work and told him what he was going to be doing that evening. At 6:00 p.m. Walter and Lisa arrived at the marina, fired up a propane cooker and started steaming crabs. Since some of the crew were unfamiliar as to how to get into the little suckers, Walter gave an entertaining and informative lesson. Man, the best crabs I ever had! Tender, juicy and so fresh. A lovely evening and hugs and thanks all around. They won’t soon forget us in Belhaven, and we are looking forward to seeing them again on our way back north.
We arrived in Georgetown SC on November 12. I had an interview scheduled for the 13th at my office back home and we were going to do it by phone and internet. We tried to get an anchor hooked but Georgetown and a lot of the state has something known as “pluff” mud. It can be as deep as 5 feet and is like a soft muck. Your anchor might sink but it has nothing to grab onto. Again with the current issues, we went to a dock so that I wouldn’t have trouble getting someplace the next day to do the interview. A short distance from the waterfront was a United Way office. The director was still in the office and I explained my problem. He invited me to come back the next day, use his office, his computer and his phone. The next day I met the rest of the staff. Everyone was pulling for me, I did the interview and was satisfied with the whole experience. (unfortunately, I didn’t get the job, but it wasn’t for lack of support from total strangers.) A quick tour of the town, a quick stop at the seafood market and we had the “fresh shrimp experience” on our boat to thank our travelling companions for sticking with us while I took care of business.
We left Georgetown on the 14th heading for Charleston. You guessed it, lots of wind and we hid out in an anchorage for the next couple of days. When the wind subsided enough to make passage, we headed to Charleston with 2 other boats. Knowing the tide situation of up to 9 ft fluctuation, lots of current and the ever present wind, we took a dock in Charleston, arriving early enough to hop on the shuttle to get a look at the business district. So much to see, we had to pick and choose. Ruth and I went through the slave market which has been turned into a tunnel of shops. It was about 5 blocks long. Imagine its heyday when they were processing all those people for sale and purchase. Unbelievable to us.
By November 20 we were in Beaufort SC at the private dock of some friends from Sarnia. They winter in Beaufort every year and having met them 10 years ago, we got in touch with them to see if we could tie up at their dock. Two of us made it the first night and the third arrived the next day. The bridge had been having repair issues but we were able to walk across it the next day and do a leisurely walking tour of the town. Beautiful antebellum homes with 3 or 4 floors, wide porches and stately live oak trees draped with Spanish moss. The state has restrictions on trimming or cutting down the live oaks and they pave streets and sidewalks around the trees rather than cutting them down. The following day, I went with the crew of Nice Butt for a carriage tour of the town and heard more about the history of the area. Seems that Beaufort took a strong position in favour of secession from the Union and evidence of that is still present. Some of the slaves, wiser than given credit at the time, were able to buy up some of the best properties for back taxes – a real slap in the face for the former plantation owners.
We had a quick ride through Georgia with good weather, stopping at Jekyll Island one night and actually getting to the beach that day for a glimpse of the Atlantic Ocean. It was calmer on the ocean than it had been in the ICW so might have been a nice choice of passage had we had the nerve. Lake sailors that we are, it just wasn’t there at the time. We did a quick walking tour of the Millionaires Club – a settlement of houses built in the early 1900s for the wealthy. I could imagine the ladies with their parasols walking the greens while the men played croquette on the lawn.
We left Georgia behind and headed to Fernandino Beach FL on the 26th. It is a lovely town with high end shops, beautiful window dressings and very clean streets. We stopped in a few shops before we realized that the 27th was Thanksgiving and if we wanted to get to the grocery store, we had to rush. Caught a cab and did a quick shop, heading back to the dingy and the anchorage after dark. The following day was laundry day and 3 more of the fleet arrived. We were all invited to Thanksgiving dinner at the Methodist Church a few blocks away and had a real treat with someone else doing the cooking for a change.
Since the weather is forecast to turn (we’ve had some really good days, although cold nights), we pulled anchor and are on our way to St Augustine where I hope to stay a few days before we have to push on.